Wednesday, August 3, 2016

Hiking Virginia: McAfee Knob

If you're looking for a great hike in Virginia, check out McAfee Knob. It may be the most iconic hike in Virginia -- and the most photographed site along the nearly 2190 mile Appalachian Trail, which stretches from Georgia to Maine.

Challenging enough for serious hikers, McAfee Knob is enough of a 'walk in the woods' for newbies to tackle. Most Hiking Upward reviewers give this hike a four to five star rating.




I've hiked McAfee several times and the views seem to get better each time. The 2015 movie, "A Walk in the Woods," which features views of McAfee Knob in the trailer and on the cover, is based on bestselling author Bill Bryson's book, "A Walk in the Woods: Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail." McAfee Knob is part of the Virginia Triple Crown of hiking, which also includes Tinker Cliffs and Dragon's Tooth.


It's easy to spot the trailhead for McAfee Knob, located on Virginia Route 311 at the top of Catawba Mountain. Just look for the hikers on the road sign and turn into the parking area on the left. It's a good idea to arrive early since the parking area fills up quickly, especially on weekends. Towing is enforced, so it's best to avoid parking on the sides of the road.


You have to cross Route 311 to get from the parking area to the trailhead. The sign on the kiosk in the parking area points you in the proper direction. The road crossing is in a curve, so be cautious.


Notices and warnings are posted on the sign. One notice suggests items to bring when hiking McAfee, including: at least two quarts of water, durable hiking boots, a working flashlight, high energy foods, rain gear and common sense. Despite the busyness of this trail, some have encountered black bears on the trail. Water sources along the trail may be dry, so make sure you have adequate water for the hike. You'll want to stay at the summit for a while to enjoy the views.


You'll see the Appalachian Trail and McAfee Knob signs across Route 311, pointing the way to the trailhead. If you're like many hikers, seeing this sign brings it home to you that you're on the way to a timeless destination where so many others have gone before you.


There's a special thrill when you see your first white blaze on the Appalachian Trail. The blazes, 2 inches wide by 6 inches high, are painted on trees, rocks and posts along the Appalachian Trail to help hikers stay on the trail. Although distances between the white blazes vary, it's recommended to retrace your steps if you've not seen a white blaze in a quarter-mile. For more seasoned A.T. hikers, the familiar white blazes feel like coming home.


Double white blazes signify a turn, route change or side trail ahead. Be alert to avoid taking a wrong turn. The two blazes may be offset in the direction of the turn. Regardless of the season, the white blazes help you stay on trail during daylight hours. Hiking after dark is more challenging.


McAfee Knob trail is a very popular trail all year long. Most hikers are pretty friendly, so you may make new friends on the trail. On my first hike, I met another hiker shortly after the trailhead and we hiked together to the top, talking to pass the time. You'll see hikers wearing everything from shorts, t-shirts and flip-flops to full backpacking gear.


There are two shelters along the trail: the Johns Spring Shelter, located less than a mile from the trailhead, and the Catawba Mountain Shelter, located 1.4 miles from the trailhead. There is one additional shelter and a campsite less than a mile north of McAfee Knob: Campbell Shelter and Pig Farm Campsite. Some hikers continue to hike north to Tinker Cliffs after reaching McAfee Knob, camp out on the mountain and return the next day.

 

There's a two night maximum stay at each shelter and all A.T. shelters are offered on a first come, first served basis. Shelters fill quickly, especially on weekends and during A.T. thru-hiker season from spring through early fall. Some shelters on the Appalachian Trail are stocked with a Bible and trail journal. You can read about other hikers' adventures on the A.T. and add your own comments to the journal.


McAfee Knob Trail and the shelters are part of the 120 miles of the A.T. maintained by volunteers from the Roanoke Appalachian Trail Club. The RATC does a great job with upkeep of the trails and shelters. The RATC website includes information about the Virginia Triple Crown: McAfee Knob, Tinker Cliffs and Dragon's Tooth. This is a great challenge, geared to more experienced hikers.


Although the favorite spot for selfies is the overhang at the summit of McAfee Knob, there are lots of other places along the trail that are good for taking photos.


At the 2.6 mile mark, you'll cross the fire road which leads back to Route 311. Some prefer to hike the less strenuous fire road on the way back to the parking area.


Shortly after crossing the fire road, you'll come to a high voltage power line clearing with very pretty views in both directions.


This is a good spot to stop and take in the views before pushing on to the last leg of the upward hike.


About 0.3 miles past the clearing, you'll come to the first good overlook looking down toward the Catawba Valley. From here, it's only about half a mile to the summit.


When you reach the big rocks, you'll be at the summit in about five minutes. If you're hiking with kids, this is a good spot for rock climbing selfies on the way down.


Keep your eyes open for the sign to McAfee Knob Spur Trail, marked with an arrow directing you to the overlook.


If you're really lucky, your first view of McAfee Knob will be unencumbered by other hikers.


It's more likely that your first view will include hikers enjoying the views from the outcropping or sitting on the edge of the overhang with legs dangling down.


Nearly everyone you see on the summit will have a camera or cell phone in hand. The views are amazing from the Knob, with a nearly 270-degree panorama of the Catawba Valley and North Mountain to the west, Tinker Cliffs to the north and the Roanoke Valley to the east.


Ask someone to take your photo on McAfee Knob. Whether you sit on the overhang or stand back a bit with your arms outstretched in victory, you'll treasure the photo.


After savoring the views and eating lunch or a snack, explore the trail to the north of the Knob. The views are spectacular from every angle.


Although camping and fires are prohibited on the summit, some day hikers set up hammocks to enjoy the view from the top of the world.


Anywhere you travel along the Appalachian Trail, you may see signs of "trail magic" -- items left by hikers and passersby for other hikers to enjoy. Although it's a nice gesture, it's best to follow the Leave No Trace principles, including "Pack it in, Pack it out" as noted on these beer cans I found in a hollow tree. During the late spring to early fall thru-hiker season, you may find "trail angels" offering fruit, snacks, burgers or hot dogs.


If you hike the fire trail on your return trip, you'll enjoy different scenery than the trip up to the Knob. The views are nice on the way down, especially when the leaves are off the trees.


I've hiked McAfee Knob at various times of year. Spring and fall are exceptionally pretty on Catawba Mountain. In spring, you'll enjoy the redbud trees, forsythia and other spring-blooming trees and shrubs. In fall, the changing leaves add a touch of magic to the hike.


The best place to eat after a long hiking day at McAfee Knob is The Homeplace Restaurant, a Southern family style restaurant, located on Catawba Valley Drive, just a few miles from the McAfee Knob parking area.

 

The Homeplace is a beautiful old farmhouse with plenty of seating inside. You'll have to wait a while during peak times, but there's a nice wrap-around porch and waiting areas inside too.


The all-you-can-eat food is served country style. If you still have room, there's dessert for a small extra charge. One thing's for sure -- you won't leave The Homeplace hungry.


For an awesome hike with spectacular views, it's hard to beat McAfee Knob. See you on the trail!

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Hiking Off the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia


Whether you're new to hiking or a long-time hiker, the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia offer a beautiful backdrop for your hiking adventures. Hiking is a great way to spend time outdoors with family or friends or to enjoy the joy of nature on a solo hike. With plenty of hiking trails just steps from the your car, the Blue Ridge Parkway offers East Coast hikers a perfect getaway destination to enjoy the beauty of the outdoors and stay active in any season.


The 469-mile Blue Ridge Parkway, stretching between Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Shenandoah National Park, celebrated 80 years in 2015. In addition to being one of America's most popular scenic byways, the Blue Ridge Parkway is one of the most visited sites in the entire National Parks system.




If you're hiking with little ones, check out the Blue Ridge Parkway Junior Ranger program. Pick up a Junior Range folder at any park visitor center, then complete the activities in the folder and at least three activities on one of the Parkway activity worksheets to receive a Junior Range badge and certificate. Kids who complete all of the worksheets also earn a special Junior Ranger pin.


Whether you prefer springtime hiking when the trees are in bloom, summertime hiking when wildflowers are everywhere, fall hiking as the leaves change color and fall from the trees or winter hiking when the views are unimpeded by leaf-filled trees, the Parkway offers many hiking options.





Enjoy short hikes at Parkway overlooks or longer hikes along the Appalachian Trail, which runs beside portions of the Parkway in Virginia. If you travel the Parkway south into North Carolina, you can access the Mountains-to-Sea Trail from along portions of the Parkway.




Easy Blue Ridge Parkway Hikes 



Mountain Farm Trail at the Humpback Rocks Visitor Center at MP 5.9 offers a self-guided walk through a model pioneer farm. Kids and grown-ups can learn a lot about farm life by reading the signs.






Ravens Roost at MP 10.7 provides an overlook with fantastic views from the parking area. You may also find rock climbing and people flying kites at this overlook.

Big Spy Mountain at MP 26.3 offers long-range views from a short hike to the top of the mountain. There's a bench for relaxing at the top of the mountain.




Yankee Horse at MP 34.4 is perfect for young hikers. A short hike in the woods takes you to a logging railroad exhibit and small waterfall.

Indian Gap at MP 47.5 is a favorite stop for kids. A 10-minute hike in the woods brings you to the Indian Rocks, giant boulder formations perfect for family photos.



Otter Lake at MP 63.1 is a small fishing lake. Walk down the stairs in the parking area and you'll find a shallow creek to hike across using stepping stones. A short hike up the trail brings you to a kid-sized cave.

Take the James River Trail at the James River Visitor Center at MP 63.6 for an easy walk across a long bridge over the James River to the restored James River and Kanawha Canal Lock exhibit.


Thunder Ridge Trail at MP 74.7 rewards your short hike with excellent views of Arnold Valley from a scenic rock overlook. This is a perfect location for family photos during any season.

Abbott Lake Trail at MP 85.7 and Elk Run Trail at MP 85.9 are both located near the Peaks of Otter. Enjoy an easy hike around Abbott Lake or a wooded hike on Elk Run Trail.



Roanoke River Trail at MP 114.9 is an easy self-guided loop trail with nice views of the river. For a more difficult hike, take the Fisherman's Trail down to the river.

Mabry Mill at MP 176.2 is one of the top destinations on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Kids of all ages enjoy taking a trip back in time along the trail. Visit the historic gristmill, sawmill and blacksmith shop and learn about life in rural Virginia.

Moderate Blue Ridge Parkway Hikes


Otter Creek Trail begins at MP 60.8 at the Otter Creek Campground. The 3.5-mile hike follows the creek from the campground through the woods to the James River Visitor Center.

The Trail of Trees begins near the James River Visitor Center at MP 63.6. Signs along the trail identify many species of trees and shrubs native to the valley.


Access the Fallingwater Cascades National Recreation Trail from either the Fallingwater Cascades parking area at MP 83.1 or the Flat Top parking area at MP 83.5, both just north of the Peaks of Otter. The scenic loop trail offers views of the falls, benches along the trail, footbridges and lots of photo opportunities.

Johnson Farm Loop Trail begins at MP 85.9 at the Peaks of Otter Visitor Center. Follow the signs through the woods to the restored Johnson Farm, which offers seasonal living history demonstrations.

Take the 4-mile scenic Roanoke Mountain Loop Road off the Parkway at MP 120.3 to the top of Roanoke Mountain. Enjoy great views from the overlooks along the roadway. The trailhead for the Roanoke Mountain Summit Trail is located at the top parking area. Take a short detour at the Mill Mountain exit at MP 120 and visit the Mill Mountain Star. From the overlook, you can see the city of Roanoke and the mountains of the Roanoke Valley.





Smart View Loop Trail at MP 154.5 is very popular with bird watchers. The 3-mile loop trail passes through woods and across a stream. Be sure to stop at Trails Cabin, built in the 1890s.





Strenuous Blue Ridge Parkway Hikes

Humpback Rocks Trail is a favorite on the north end of the Parkway at MP 6.0. The 2-mile trail takes you to spectacular views from the Humpback Rocks at the top. Teens love scrambling among the rocks.

Apple Orchard Falls Trail at MP 78.4 is a National Recreation Trail starting at Sunset Field Overlook and leading to Apple Orchard Falls. The views of the falls are well worth the hike. Although the hiking distance is relatively short, the return trip is all uphill so pace yourselves.

Sharp Top Trail is one of the most popular hikes on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Start at MP 86.0 for the 1.5-mile hike to the top of Sharp Top Mountain, where you'll enjoy 360-degree panoramic views. If you're feeling adventurous, climb on the giant boulders. There's a shelter near the top of the mountain for overnight hikers.

Rock Castle Gorge Trail at MP 167.1 is 10.8-mile loop trail from the Rocky Knob Campground into the Gorge. Be sure to allow enough time for this all day hike and bring plenty of water and snacks.

Pick up a Blue Ridge Parkway Outdoor guide at any visitor center for information about additional Parkway hikes. There are numerous Parkway hiking guidebooks available for purchase too.

There are also many hiking opportunities available from the 105-mile Skyline Drive, which takes you through the Blue Ridge Mountains in Shenandoah National Park.

The Skyline Drive has four entrances between Front Royal and Waynesboro. You'll receive a basic park guide when you enter the Skyline Drive. For more hiking trails, pick up a small hiking guide book at one of the Visitor Centers.


Be aware that some portions of the Blue Ridge Parkway close for snow and ice in the winter. Despite the closures, the Parkway is a wonderful hiking destination any time of year. Whether you bring the family or solo hike, there are picnic areas and scenic overviews located along the roadside and trails of all difficulty levels to challenge hikers of all abilities. Happy Trails!